2350 isx rebuild recommendations

[Gonefishin900]

The guy reviewing the delete would approve, so can’t blame the delete on the oil temps. And as far as far what truck to run I definitely will not be stepping back in time, I’ve got 5 trucks 2 of which are 600hp and handle the minimum of 140k lbs we run. One at 525 has its hands full with the b trains. I have no problem spending money, I have an issue spending money where I don’t see value. I’ll go buy a new 589 before I give Cummins 70k for a reman motor.

[tree98]

Reman motor?? I thought we were talking about inframe's??

[Gonefishin900]

(02-16-2026 )tree98 Wrote:  Reman motor?? I thought we were talking about inframe's??

Yes I will be putting a inframe kit in. Just putting a Canadian peso $ value on doing the whole thing.

[Nostalgic]

Not sure what the exchange rate is, but a Elite kit, + oil cooler, bypass kit, and turbo would probably land you around $45k USD all said and done. The little odds and ends add up.

[Rawze]

(02-16-2026 )Gonefishin900 Wrote:  The guy reviewing the delete would approve, so can’t blame the delete on the oil temps.
...

That statement indirectly implies that programming cannot raise oil temps ...

for FYI: people reading the thread ...

.. bad delete programing WILL ABSOLUTELY CAUSE HIGHER THAN NORMAL OIL TEMPS... BY A ,LOT!!... DUE TO EXCESSIVE FRICTION. One of the biggest issues that bad deletes have is that the engine gets permanently stuck in the wrong operating mode. Engine is making as much internal friction as it can perpetually, it still trying to heat up the DPF .. which is now missing. It causes a much shorter engine life, higher than normal oil temps, a VGT turbo that spools up at idle and a whole lot more issues. - All typically leading to a dropped liner, turbo failures, and all kinds of other expensive headaches.

- I have seen first hand, bad delete programing that was so bad, that it caused bobtail trucks oil to overheat @ 245+ temps, not even loaded with freight yet ... . all while 6 mechanics shops and the the driver all SWEARING there was nothing wrong with programming,.. etc... only to put properly corrected programming back in, and oil temps drop by more than 40+degrees, back down to normal, once the engine was set to operate in the correct operating modes again.

========
programming or not ...

- This guy is about one inch from getting banned form here. Sounds more like he wants everyone to agree with him and justify some bad, after-garbage decisions and short sightedness, rather than to actually learn something.

There is no sugar coating around here. If you here to learn, that is one thing ... but if all you want is for people to agree with some half-arsse trash ides applied to a $40,000 commercial engine, making it completely WORTHLESS with parts that will not last 2-3 years without having to do it all over again... then go to some other forum, back to social medai where that crap belongs.

People have no idea what kind of can of worms they are getting themselves into when they buy non-OE parts for ISX's.

-- ALL the extra headaches in attempts to save a bit if $$$ , only to find out the hard way that the specs are all over the place from one component to the next, such as bearings that ALL have to be plastigauged and then half of them returned back to the after-garbage company because they do not pass spec,.. and all the other headaches and variances found int the parts before its over with. - That or just slapping it all in like a complete fool and wondering why oil pressures are not right.,.. compression ratios are not even, enigne does not run quite right, etc.etc.etc. and too much moneys and time already invested, with 'regret' written all over it.

.. and YES, IT IS THAT BAD!!!.

[gagezuniga]

I have personally run into bad aftermarket parts from all different manufactures, for instance during a rebuild I measured the crankshaft journals and the measurements were off 8 thou between 3 journals from a aftermarket supplier, the quality and assurance that the part is going to last with aftermarket is not there, you might get lucky but a price will be paid later down the road for pinching pennys up front, if you buy cheap parts you will get cheap results.
pm me for questions

[mikkhh]

(02-17-2026 )gagezuniga Wrote:  I have personally run into bad aftermarket parts from all different manufactures, for instance during a rebuild I measured the crankshaft journals and the measurements were off 8 thou between 3 journals from a aftermarket supplier, the quality and assurance that the part is going to last with aftermarket is not there, you might get lucky but a price will be paid later down the road for pinching pennys up front, if you buy cheap parts you will get cheap results.
pm me for questions

Aftermarket crankshaft? Oh well, they can be used as a boat anchor but not on a modern diesel engine. Some morons (engine builders, part sellers) claim that their aftermarket crankshaft is stronger due to the fact that they have omitted rolled radiuses on crankshafts to make them stronger. That is absolutely false, rolled radiuses are there to improve the fatigue life of crankshaft - https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/ar...2308002739 .

8 thousands of difference may mean that it was just old crank that got reground to first repair size. If crankshaft has to be reground on modern engine (especially 2010+ emissions equipped diesels) then it means that the crankshaft has only use as a boat anchor, reground crankshaft WILL crack at journals, WILL crack at web, question is whichever comes first, neither of those failures is cheap to fix and if you score the jackpot you need another engine. Original crankshafts are induction heat treated and nitrided. Theoretically they can be reground with good results if somebody inspects for cracks and also does the heat treatment and nitriding part again, that can MAYBE happen at engine manufacturer not at a machine shop. Most machine shops are having hard time to even match the crank pin offset and rod stroke, rolled radiuses are ground off center BADLY and that can end up in crankshafts snapping at webs - explained well in depth http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/crankshaft/

Engine bearings have part manufacturers writings on them. You may think that the parts are exactly the same as ones branded with engine manufacturer logos, but that is not the case at all. Most likely those parts are either old discontinued part numbers OR ones that did not meet the quality to be sold under engine manufacturer packaging. On European car engines you can buy standard bearings in three sizes that differ by 0.01mm, aftermarket have only + 0.25 and +0.50 and maybe perhaps +0.75 and +1.00 mm in extreme cases.


Why crankshaft dampers have to be replaced - https://enginemechanics.tpub.com/14075/c...eb-108.htm . Excessive torsional vibrations from lugging engine or bad crank dampener or bad delete or failing injectors are going to wreak havoc on crankshaft and at some point crankshaft WILL snap or get a curvature in it and grind out main bearings - example from a van engine https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=10370 . Snapped crankshafts from failed harmonic balancers have happened on even oldschool mechanical diesel engines.

[Nostalgic]

Ironically, my aftermarket crank was one thing I didn't have a issue with - I only ran it two years though. My aftermarket head - I also didn't have an immediate issue with, but I only ran it one year. Not promoting them at all - heck, even if I wanted, I have no clue where they actually came from, other than China.

[Gonefishin900]

Called for a quote on Cummins remans today
Classic -13k
Pro-29k
Elite-44k
pro/elite come with reman parts including the water/fuel pump, and head… rods on the elite.
None of which include turbo, cam, dampener or oil cooler.
…what is the consensus on the oil cooler thermostat to lower the temp. I know the tune is good, is there anyway to check the oil cooler itself?