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RAS041

I do have Insite that is working properly, and Calterm but need to invest time into setting it up to function with my ecm files.I really only needed it so I could look at the previous calibrationif the acceptable voltage range was altered by this shady mechanic. He claimed to have replaced parts that are definately still origional and the way recalibration made the faultsappear tell me the sensitivity was tightened up. but being a little bit new to Diesel trucks I did not realize an ECM image is not the same as a backup of the previous calibration. And like yall said good example of what not to do.
The calibration I put in was the same one that was on the truck when I bought it and I do use quickserve and have a mechanic’s ear, that helps me confirm part numbers, and which calibration file is for my truck. Everything appears to be original. Since I had cleared 99% of the DTC‘s, and the barometric sensor was reading out of range I thought somehow the calibration got skewed or something of that sort After all of the sensor replacements under the hood and I was wrong when I did recalibrate. the high voltage or high signal voltage fault codes appeared for other components. I didn’t touch any physical components from having the one fault code to recalibrating, and having these other faults appear, I will post an image of the fault codes on insite
. I did do all of the work on the truck except for the transmission cooling lines underneath and the three batteries when the mechanic wanted nine grand to replace my turbo charger. I immediately paid him and towed my truck home and got a new actuator for the VGT and it actually functions great. The VGT action is smoothand has minimal resistance definitely more than a new one, but it’s not choppy. It’s more than good. He said it was locked up. Complete lie. I had others confirm this.
I have a 20 year background as a setup tech, programmer, and machine repair with all kinds of machinery from cam operated automatic swiss screw machines(mechanical) as well as new age cnc equiptment, this allwed me to be more than clueless troubleshooting the majority of issues. although I definately installed a couple sensors I PROBABLY DIDNT NEED but it eliminated that possibility and isolated the problem. And as for this electrical issue, i have voltage spikes up and down only to certain wires. The alternator is newand doesnt put out anymore than 14.1 but if theres a short or spikes it could be overcompensating causing overvoltage? Im reaching, hoping someone may have an idea or test to run. I’m not sure exactly what it is, but there is this four post solenoid. I think it engages in disengages for battery charging I could be completely wrong but one of the wires that’s where I’m getting The voltage spikes are very unstable. And when I connect the wires to it the instability and spikes transfer to one of the other four wires.The batteries are brand new and they all are a 12.5v+\-.3v.
I refurbished all major grounds. The main ground, the welded post onto the frame rail that the three batteries in parallel negative side still seems like there can be rust in the holes between welds. Resistance is .15ohm.It stopped raining and ill test further back to find the source of spikes. And also the ecm outgoing voltage to the circuts affected to guage if ecm is putting out too much or somethings crossed or dhorted in harness..I am all ears for correction and direction. I am new to automotive mechanics especially diesel. I have done plenty with cars but nothing like this. Thanks in advance. Just want to run before i must get a day job.