| Old emissions vs new |
| 05-23-2021, (Subject: Old emissions vs new ) Post: #17 | |||
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RE: Old emissions vs new (05-22-2021 )John Doe Wrote:(05-20-2021 )Rawze Wrote: I would leave the system as is and just keep after it properly. Install some kind of oil bypass system on it to keep the soot out of the oil, and regular EGR tune-up work. - Once the system get so old that it cannot keep up with the engine wear as everything gets old ... that is when you do something about it (most people end up making all those cans hollow and some properly made de-mandate programming that can be verified 100% safe by myself or one of the other ppl on here)... so that it does not cost a fortune to keep the truck running. If you are hauling general freight, like I do with a dry van, I change my oil every 12,000 to 15,000 miles in my CM-871, and yes, mine is deleted, it has been for quite a few years... There is no difference in these ISX motors vs say an old Detroit or even an old ISX, when the manufacturer recommended 12,000 to 15,000 mile oil changes. It is criminal to take a motor much farther than that, especially a soot producing EPA motor. The soot is trapped in the oil and works like sandpaper internally as it is now trapped in the oil vs being blown out the stack. Proper oil changes are critical to keeping these EPA motors healthy. And do not waste you money on synthetics, good old conventional oil is fine, Rotella, Mobil, Walmart Super Tech, all good brands, I think most of us use Rotella here, I do and so does Rawze. One thing I would do, is to get under the valve cover of the motor to inspect the cam, lobes and rollers. Running extended oil changes tends to chew up the cam and rollers, so it would be a good idea to remove that cover and inspect, and run an over head too. Adjust the valves, as I am sure it has never been done. The fuel pump too, you need to take apart, inspect and replace the recommended parts and pieces internally. There are plenty of threads here on what you need parts wise and how to do it. This should be part of a regular maintenance program, every 300,000 to 400,000 miles on rebuilding that pump. And I would do it to yours ASAP, even if it looks like it was already done. Get in there and rebuild it, so that you know exactly when it was done, what parts were used, etc. This is critical to you keeping that truck on the road and you out of bankruptcy. If you are going to keep the emissions, I would suggest going to Amsoil and purchasing their universal oil filter relocation kit. Use that as a secondary filter to collect the soot in the oil that escapes the primary filter. Here is the kit, https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-bypa...tem-bmk30/ You will need to purchase your own lines, or custom make them. You can use any filter you want that fits the filter housing, we are not Amsoil folks here, most of us use regular old Rotella and Fleetguard filters, none of that overpriced snake oil here. Or, do what many folks here do, call Mr Hagg in Griffin GA, just a few miles south of Atlanta, and let him go through everything and fix that emission issue for good. He will run that overhead, install the gauges you will need to become profitable and do a basic once over on that truck and motor. It will be worth the trip and you will sleep easy at night knowing everything was taken care of, PROPERLY taken care of. Rawze is right around the corner too... Haggai Automotive and Diesel Repair 1228 High Falls Rd, Griffin, GA 30223 Opens 8AM Mon Phone: (678) 688-8107 User's Signature: 2008 ProStar, OEM 600hp CM-871, 18spd, 3:42, in framed in Rawze's driveway. Every day is a fresh new episode of, "The Twilight Zone"... Rod Serling lives rent free in my head. I can smell the Chesterfields. | |||
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