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Nostalgic

I don't follow OE pricing very close, but it seems like maybe the prices have softened a tad? $5500-6k range for 871 era RX turbos.

My YTS failed - not because of craftmanship, but because of the vgt assembly. The studs became loose and wallowed out. On tear down, I was amazed it was still working at all - it only stuck when doing sweeps cold.

Out of any non OE rebuilder independent shops, I'd lean toward YTS being the most meticulous during balancing and assembling, but he has the same problem all other rebuilders have - no access to genuine parts. Mcbee, HD, etc all rely on aftermarket VGT rings and vanes, etc. I even see Bullydog jumping in selling aftermarket crap at nearly OE pricing.

SquareOne

(Yesterday )Nostalgic Wrote: ...My YTS failed - not because of craftmanship, but because of the vgt assembly. The studs became loose and wallowed out...

What kind of mileage (or time depending on how you run), did you see out of your YTS?

(Yesterday )Nostalgic Wrote: Out of any non OE rebuilder independent shops, I'd lean toward YTS being the most meticulous during balancing and assembling, but he has the same problem all other rebuilders have - no access to genuine parts. Mcbee, HD, etc all rely on aftermarket VGT rings and vanes, etc. I even see Bullydog jumping in selling aftermarket crap at nearly OE pricing.

Yep you're right on pricing...they're up there. If everything goes well with my core, I'll be about 5k deep with turbo and actuator from YTS. However, if it serves me well, it beats the alternatives. My local Cummins dealer claimed they had no RX available for my setup (cm2350), and the new prices are astronomical! If a reg guy rolls into the dealer to replace the turbo/actuator, it would cost 15k+ between parts, labor and sales tax. Seriously unbelievable.

Nostalgic

I couldn't answer you very accurately. I've lost track over the years when and what I was running and for how long. I'd guess that I probably had 150-200k on it. Of course that's over several years, I don't put many miles on.

I've been hesitant to even say on here that it failed, because I really do believe he does an excellent job. I'd buy another from him again without hesitation - I just don't expect as long of service life as a new oe holset.

Funny story about that particular turbo. I bought parts online and rebuilt it myself - I'm just terrified to bolt it on and try it haha. It's in the SHTF storage boxes just in case I need a whistle whirley smoke spinner in a dystopian future. If my current turbo needs replacing, I'm calling YTS first.

SquareOne

Does anyone have any pics of what fails when the turbos get stuck? Would like to see just how wore they get. It would be interesting to see one tore down displaying the issues.

I considered tearing mine down, but at the risk of losing the $750 core deposit, I'm not that curious lol. I would imagine, being that it's seen 10psi or below for the last 750k+, there's most likely one very used section of the VG movement that is the culprit

Nostalgic

Mine was kind of hard to figure out the chicken/egg part. The vgt ring, the plate on the exhaust housing held in with snap ring, was loose. It had heavy wear from the vanes contacting it. Also, like I mentioned, the studs that hold the pivoting part of the vane shroud, that moves the vanes in and out of the plate was loose and worn. I could be using totally incorrect terms for the parts too.

Did the plate working against the vanes cause the vibration and wear on the pivoting assembly? Or did the loose pivoting assembly cause the wear on the plate and make it loose? I dunno. It could have even been when I reclocked the hot side against the center section and damaged something that cascaded into the failure.

I do know, from splitting my used OE Holset and checking, that the vanes that move back and forth DO wear some. I would guess that unless something actually wears out to the point of failure, that typical sticking is from the worn section of the vanes catching on the plate just enough to throw the VGT actuator out of calibration. Just speculative guessing since I don't rebuild them, or tear them down on a regular basis and my sample pool is a whopping two turbos in total haha.

I will say, that even though I rebuilt a turbo that's probably isn't balanced correctly and I'm afraid to use, it was more beneficial to me overall, just seeing how they work, than anything. Seeing and understanding the oil seal in particular, really made me understand how weeping some oil is NOT indicative of any defect of the turbo itself, especially if you check with a dial indicator and the wheel isn't contacting the housing.

Here's the only pics I could find - not real helpful.