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Josiah Harder

I had my engine rebuilt 30,000 kms ago and now I am being hit with everything under the sun. During the rebuild I replaced the oil cooler and EGR cooler for good measure since my oil sample came back showing coolant contamination. In the last couple weeks I also had to replace my entire manifold, the turbo actuator, the EGR valve and cleaned my DPF which is only 1 year old. Now I have codes for high crank case pressure only when doing a regen or when I come to a stop and the engine goes into its warm up mode for the emissions system. I had to leave the dipstick cap open to release pressure or I would get a STOP ENGINE IMMEDIATELY warning while it was doing regens. I had my truck at Kenworth in Ontario and they told me crank case pressure was measured too high for a new engine when under load during a road test. I will attach the invoice notes and engine codes for reference but for convenience I will quote the most relevant parts here. At idle crank case pressure readings are okay "1.2 InH2O" While driving under hard acceleration crank case pressure climbs to almost "16 InH2O" after coming to a stop and engine enters keep warm mode for regen pressure rises to "8-9 InH2O" Now before doing these tests they had replaced the crank case pressure sensor and ensured nothing was frozen or full of debris in the system but they did not replace my crank case filter because it is the non serviceable kind. They isolated both the air compressor and the turbo and still told me crank case pressures were too high and I must have an internal issue. So I drove 3000 kms to the shop in PEI Canada that originally did my rebuild. So im home now and they are now telling me they have opened a case with Cummins and that all my crank case pressure readings are within spec for a new engine. What am I supposed to believe here? I'm shocked Kenworth in Ontario didnt replace the crank case filter before doing all these tests but I was told it was non serviceable and didnt need to be changed. Now on top of all this my truck was asking me to do a regen once I got halfway home except it will not complete even if left over 2 hours. I stopped in Quebec on my way back and had a Peterbilt there do a regen for over 2 hours and they said the temperature is fluctuating too much. The shop here now is telling me the same thing and said my turbo is only getting around 78% closure rate which im told is insufficient to create the heat required to complete a regen. So ive ordered a new one now and am just hoping this will be the last thing I need to do. I am still worried about the crank case pressure readings and faults I was getting before so I told them to retest everything under load and under regen for high crank case pressure readings after they replace the turbo. Does anyone know what the acceptable values and tolerances are for crank case pressure in Inches of H20 for a newly rebuilt engine are? Was told Cummins has 2 sets of acceptable values for this measurement and that a newly rebuilt engine has a stricter tolerance.

Rawze

Was it all genuine OEM parts?.. or an aftermarket overhaul kit?.

Could it be that whoever installed the pistons did not get the rings aligned just right??.

at 8:25 in this video...
info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfPxx9vEoQU

Bengy88

What Rawze said….. also it sounds like there are quite a few people feeding you a whole line of bullshit. Just speculating but your turbo is most likely doing what it is supposed to do. You can start a regen and monitor your requested versus actual position just to verify especially considering that the upper limit of your vgt table should be around 75% closed except in the idle ranges. There is a possibility of a cracked ring or more so what Rawze said and your rings are all lined up. If you have insite and an adapter I don’t mind logging in and seeing exactly what your aftertreatment is doing during a regen. You can just shoot me some contact info in a pm

Josiah Harder

(Yesterday )Rawze Wrote: Was it all genuine OEM parts?.. or an aftermarket overhaul kit?.

I could not afford genuine Cummins parts. It would have costed me 27,000 CAD more to go all OEM and that's not even including injectors so I went with all aftermarket injectors, new head, and a rebuild kit from {third party}. I just could not afford OEM so I felt like aftermarket was my only option. I did have it done at a reputable shop here that ive had a great relationship with for over 3 years and I know the tech working on my truck has been working on trucks for 20 years already so I think they would have done a good job but im not sure.

Bengy88

If you have {name redacted, rymes with 'Bigbee'} internals I wouldn’t put it past a cracked liner, broken ring, or failed pistons. I’ve been there and done that for a customer that insisted. Had one of their liners fail at 100 miles. I won’t even use a gasket made by them now. They are notorious for having issues like this. In 20 years it’s the only engine I’ve had fail after building it. We have literally seen their liners cracked straight out the box and good luck with their warranty that shi#t didn’t make it past the phone call.

Rawze

THEN YOU SHOULD HAVE BECOME A COMPANY DRIVER for someone until you could get the moneys to do a proper d$amn job!!!. -- and found someone to help you do the job right instead of those clowns!!.

YOU GOT WHAT YOU PAID FOR... A half-arssed rebuild, using half-arssed parts!!!... And now your wondering why it is not working out for you!!!..

WHO SUGGESTED THAT ATER-GARBAGE TRASH TO BE PUT INTO YOUR ENGINE!!...??? -- if it was that 'tech' or that shop at all,.. If so, then they are not fit to work on red engines whatsoever!!!.

And your own words heavily suggest they are clueless as well.. So you should stop putting your faith in places/people who are clueless!.

Someone jumped over a dollar to save 10 damn cents and now if you want it right... Guess what!!!... Your going to have to do a complete inframe again to solve your excessive blo-by and other premature failure issues that you will be facing over the next 3-4 years!. -- that would not have happened if you had done the right thing, spent a little more (or shopped around for the best oem pricing), and built it right to begin with!!..

NOW YOU KNOW WHAT IS WRONG!. - garbage parts and complete incompetence!.

This is why I asked you if it was non-OE parts to begin with. Your own first post points heavily right towards garbage-can overhaul kit.. or someone's complete incompetence in putting it together, which is less likely, but still possible. - Who knows at this point, maybe both.

What a waste of damn moneys... completely!... SITUATIONS LIKE THIS COMPLETELY SICKENS ME!!, as they can be avoided.

and even now, if you de-mandate it.. it will not even hold together for about 2-3 years AT BEST, unless you turn the HP down to minimum.. and pray those garbage parts can last a bit.. while you make some moneys back with it. -- BECAUSE your looking at ANOTHER INFRAME--- SOON!!!.. .. And replacing those complete garbage injectors, garbage pistons, garbage head, and especially garbage injectors, etc.etc.etc...

THAT ENGINE IS RUINED in its current state with all the after-garbage, trash-can parts that weren't worth dumping into the ocean, nonetheless put into a $40,000 commercial engine, .. and now your situation will be nothing but a money pit pre-mature failures until it all gets re-built again with the right parts.

And if it was that shop that suggested that trash and then willingly installed that garbage without great amounts of protest, then tell them that i said that they are also nothing but a canadian redneck trash-can place too!.

Just because they have 20+ years doing something does not mean they know what the f^*$k they are doing!... and then to blow smoke up your arsse and lead you along when you have excessive blo-by issues,.. tells me everything right there that anyone needs to know about how bad or shady they really are!.

WHAT is your oil pressures looking at once the engine (and its oil system) is completely/fully warmed up at idle? .. and going down the road?. -- because that is even more signs of garbage parts that don't fit together just right. - ALL Aftergrabage bearing have to be PLASTIGUAGED!!.. DID THEY EVEN BOTHER??... What were the clearances?.-- And thats yet another issue when you don't get oem!!.

HERE IS WHAT SHOULD HAVE HAPPENED, and not the garbage that has been done...
INFO: https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?...6#pid70606

Rawze

(related information, not directed towards anyone)...

AN INFRAME is an investment...

When it comes to expensive repairs to your equipment such as a complete rebuild, it should be seen as AN INVESTMENT, into the future. It is very similar to investing in stocks or other things that you do not know the outcome for.

.. And just like investing in stocks on the market,... if you do not invest in the right ones,;.. then it hurts.. IT HURTS BADLY!.

I don't know about anyone else.. but I would only want to invest in something that absolutely will yield a profit instead of something shady or is of lesser certainty.

The same thing goes with an inframe for your truck. - INVEST WISELY.. VERY VERY WISELY, because anything less, and it hurts like all h#ell financially in the end.

With an inframe, your investing in the future longevity of the equipment. - Your investing and making a gamble on 'how long' until the next inframe comes due in the future. I don't know about anyone else,.. but I want to invest in something that I know the answer to.. and do not have to second guess.

THIS IS WHY I always push so hard for people to buy only OEM components on a commercial engine. Its not because I care about the manufacturer, or want to make their sales go up,.. it is because WE KNOW WITHOUT QUESTION what the expected lifespan is for those components when everything is done correctly. - WE ALREADY KNOW that the engine has a potential to go that next million miles reliably, and without headaches. - This is like investing in IBM instead of Juicero.

The future of the equipment can be well-calculated when a known quality of investment in parts have been made. - The profit margin and longevity can be estimated fairly accurately,. And this allows someone to make wise decisions.

ANYTHING LESS than demanding 100% perfection and quality of the job and its components = LESS TIME until something major fails again, meaning LESS LONG TERM PROFIT, or NO PROFIT AT ALL!.

Most truck O/O’s (owner operators) do well to be able to make back in about 3-4 years at a minimum, or to break even on the $$,$$$ (5 figures) of moneys spent for a rebuild in re-claimed profits. The engine HAS TO LAST THIS LONG OR MORE, otherwise, you only sink further into that endless financial hole of ‘Can’t seem to get ahead’ oblivion. This is not any place to be at all as a truck owner, yet I see it over and over with many trucks.

It is a repeating story that is all too familiar around here, especially with inframes, and it ALWAYS HURTS BADLY!.

This is why I push for people to use only genuine OEM parts. At least that investment IS WELL KNOWN. It is the norm for an engine/truck to last a long time (unless someone tortured or abused it) before its first inframe, and be quite profitable. There is no reason for it not to do the same (or better) the second time around when everything was done right, and all replacement parts were of the same OEM quality.

The next thing on the table is that during an inframe/ major rebuild, this also lends itself to IMPROVING THINGS in a genuine way beyond what the OEM requires if possible. things like mentioned in this post...
info: https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?...6#pid70606

On a red engine, things like raising liners to improve strength and using better assembly techniques that are above and beyond the required minimum to help ensure the best longevity possible. This instead of simply ‘doing according to the book’ type of no give-a-damn lazy, speed-gun happy methods like most repair shops do. – this is NOT being wise, and very, VERY few repair shops will even bother, nonetheless get mad at you for even questioning how they do things.

It never fails that the more volume that a big repair shop does, it seems that the more bad habits they acquire and the less in touch with reality and care for longevity they have. Higher popularity and higher volume of what they do seems to ALWAYS drop the quality of outcome. This is the first red flag.

FIND that one repair shop who is willing to listen. Find that place that you can point out the extra steps as mentioned on this forum, and have then read and understand ‘that extra mile’ and are wiling to do so… and you will find someone who truly cares, and not just someone who is only concerned with getting your truck ’in and out’ and argues with you otherwise, or is willing to use or push garbage components or methods onto you otherwise.